Buying your first home in the Midlands is a numbers exercise long before it becomes a viewing diary. Prices swing widely across the region — a terrace in one town can cost less than a flat in another — but the bills you'll face are much the same wherever you buy. What changes is how well you've prepared for them. Below is the money side, in the order you'll meet it: what to save, what you can borrow, what you pay upfront, and what the house quietly costs you every month afterwards.
Most lenders want a minimum of 5% of the purchase price, though 10% usually opens up better interest rates and a wider choice of deals. On a £200,000 home, 10% is £20,000 — and that is the deposit alone, before a single fee. Aim past your deposit target rather than at it, so the legal bills don't land on a savings account you've just emptied.
If you're under 40, a Lifetime ISA is worth a look: you can pay in up to £4,000 a year, the government adds 25%, and the money is for a first home under a set price limit. Withdraw it for anything else and you lose the bonus. Family gifts towards a deposit are common, and lenders will normally ask for a signed letter confirming the money is a gift rather than a loan.
Two habits make the saving easier. Move the money by standing order the day after payday, and keep a separate, smaller pot for fees. If it's all in one account, you'll spend the fees.
Income multiples are the starting point — broadly four to four and a half times a salary — but lenders look at the whole picture. Credit card balances, car finance, personal loans, student loan repayments, childcare costs and a permanently overdrawn current account all reduce what you can borrow. They also test whether you could still pay if rates rose, so the figure in your head is often higher than the figure on the offer.
A decision in principle is free, takes minutes and gives you a realistic ceiling. Do that before you start viewing.
Then think about where in the Midlands you're buying. A town with a quick rail link into Birmingham, Coventry, Nottingham or Leicester tends to cost more than the stop after it. That's not automatically a saving — run the annual season ticket cost against the difference in house prices before you decide the cheaper town is cheaper.
Budget for all of these, not just the first one:
England's first-time buyer relief means many buyers at the lower end of the market pay no stamp duty at all. The catch is that the relief only applies up to a price cap. Go over that cap and the relief disappears entirely, with standard rates applying to the whole price — so a small increase in your offer can add a substantial sum to your bill. Thresholds have changed more than once in recent years, so check the current figures on gov.uk and ask your solicitor to confirm what you'd owe on a specific property. Scotland and Wales run their own property taxes, which matters if you're looking near the borders.
Council tax is the easiest one to check and the easiest to ignore. Look up the band on the listing before you view, and remember a new-build's band may not be set until after completion. Then add energy, water, broadband, contents and buildings insurance, and any TV licence. Add them up honestly, then add 10% for the things you've forgotten.
If you're buying a flat or a leasehold house, there'll be a service charge and possibly ground rent, and both can rise. Some newer freehold estates also carry an estate management fee for communal green space and drainage. Ask for the current figures and the last few years of accounts before you offer, not after your solicitor raises it.
Roofs, boilers and gutters don't wait for a convenient month. A rough approach is to set aside around 1% of the property's value each year, saved monthly, so a £200,000 home gets roughly £165 a month. Some years you'll spend nothing; some years you'll spend the lot. The point is that the money exists.
Take a hypothetical £220,000 home with a 10% deposit. You'd put down £22,000 and borrow £198,000. Over 30 years at around 5%, that's roughly £1,060 a month — rates move, so treat that as an illustration and not a quote. Stamp duty is often nil for first-time buyers at this level, but confirm it. Solicitor's fees, searches and disbursements typically run from several hundred pounds into four figures depending on the property; a survey is a few hundred pounds, more for a full structural report; a local removal is usually a few hundred. Then the monthly running costs on top of the mortgage.
Write that page out before you view anything. It turns "we could probably afford it" into a number you can argue with.
Get a decision in principle, then sit down with one page: deposit, fees, stamp duty, monthly mortgage, monthly running costs and maintenance. If the total leaves you with nothing spare each month, the budget is too tight — a boiler or a broken car shouldn't tip you into debt. Speak to a regulated mortgage broker about what you can borrow, and a solicitor about the legal and tax position for your circumstances; both are worth the hour, and the good ones save you more than they cost. Revisit the numbers every few months, because rates, prices and your own salary all move. When the figures hold up over two or three passes, you're ready to start viewing.
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